Some links, just in case it wasn’t a simple broken lightbulb, especially as I also got an intermittent error/fault on one of the rear fog lights (which the British call demisters):
- [WaybackSave/Archive] BMW E61 number plate bulb for sale online at low cost and fair price on AUTODOC UK
OSRAM C5W Bulb, licence plate light 12V 5W 35 mm, C5W, SV8.5-8
Note that some indicate 10W, but I am pretty sure it is a 5W bulb.
- [Wayback/Archive] 2005 530i E61 Touring – Number Plate Bulb Failure Warning… | BMW Forums : BimmerForums
Very familiar problem with the touring wiring at the hinge point. I have done mine twice now seems to last 3 or4 years but it is not a difficult issue to repair the wires and at almost no cost except your time. Just follow the several historical threads on the forum.
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On Ebay there are people that do wiring kits for this sort of job, that use silicone wires, which should last the life of the car – at quite reasonable prices. Breaks in the various wires in the tailgate can give a multitude of faults – with the locking, rear wiper, lights, remote locking, rear glass lock and rear demister – and as you have found – reversing lights!
- [Wayback/Archive] Number Plate light Right Failure / Tailgate wiring new – 5Series.net – Forums
After changing the tailgate wiring (every wire soldered + heatshrink)I still have the number Plate light Right Failure
Checked the wire from the original wire (next to the speaker) and no juice when lights are on or notForgot to mention! I did try and change the bulb already :-)
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All wires now repaired but no juice from the +ve wire for the L/H numberplate bulb holder. The bulb failure message is now getting really annoying!
I had to piggyback off the R/H light to pass the MOT test.Could the fault be now up front in the back of the fuse box? I can’t see how that could be though.
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I have been trying to fix this issue for days, no broken wires, no burnt terminals, all new bulbs, absolutely baffled.
MOT due this week so a quick fix had to be presented.Method: take a single wire from any cable, I used a broken extension lead and took one of the three wires out, I threaded this through the car from the tail light, up behind the plastics in to the roof, through the speaker frame and down the shell of the tail gate, connect/solder one end to the tail light (top side), and the other to the right hand reg plate light to the end opposite the wire side.
both reg plate lights will work and so will the right side rear fog lamp, how?? I don’t know it just does…
If anyone can pin point this fault for a proper fix I would greatly appreciate the knowledge being shared.
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I’ve heard several instances where the wires were broken in multiple places.
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The previous repair was done about 2 years ago so it seems plausible for a new failure point. Once I get some time I’ll dig in it.
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- [Wayback/Archive] driver side license plate light not working – 5Series.net – Forums
You need a diagnostic cable and INPA or DIS to clear the fault code from the LCM – if that doesn’t work, you’ll need to use Tool32.
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One that I found is that when I put a light tester to the gray/brown wire that should be the positive wire it actually has a negative output coming from it. Doesn’t make sense because that wire should be positive, NOT negative. But if I unplug the light socket from the plug , it no longer is negative.
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Yes exactly that – if the wires were actually touching and shorting each other, the light module would have disabled that circuit if it happens 10 times in a row. Make sure the problem is properly fixed before resetting it, I think you can only reset it 4 times before it permanently stores the fault code.
Look up the colours in WDS if you want, brown is ground in the headlights of my car…
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THANK YOU sanjsanj I was able to fix my problem. I was able to clear the line that was short circuited using Toolset32 and now my license plate lights all work again.
- [Wayback/Archive] can’t locate fuse for license plate lights
The license plate lights (and other lights) receive power from the light module. It’s listed as fuses #9 which is a 5A fuse, and #32 whic is a 25A fuse. AFAIK, more than just your license plate lights should be out if this fuse is busted.
- [Wayback/Archive] license plate bulb – 5Series.net – Forums
The whole housing can be removed by inserting a flat-head screw driver into the gap provided and pushing the screw driver to the right, (DO NOT TILT the screw driver, PUSH as when you want to push the housing to the right) Then it will pop right out.
After the housing is removed, you can replace the bulb easily.P.S. : I tilted the screw driver when I did mine and broke both housings… Luckily I purchase the whole housing LED replacements. I learned from my experience and replaced my friend’s without a problem.
- [Wayback/Archive] BMW 5 Series E60/E61 LED License Plate – How To Install- 5th Gen (2003-2011) – YouTube has great instructions on changing the bulb
Queries:
- [Wayback/Archive] bmw e61 number plate right failure – Sök på Google
- [Wayback/Archive] e61 number plate light change light bulb – Google Search
- [Wayback/Archive] e61 license plate fuse – Google Search
- [Wayback/Archive] 12v e61 number plate light change light bulb – Google Search
--jeroen
It looks like my E61 needs the battery to be charged at least every few weeks. Need to figure out why.
The Wiert Corner - irregular stream of stuff 