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Jeroen W. Pluimers on .NET, C#, Delphi, databases, and personal interests

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Archive for the ‘3D printing’ Category

Eff-Uno Racer v1 by chrisbensen – Thingiverse: Open Wheel Race Car from LEGO© and 3D printed bricks, with RC motors controlled by a Raspberry Pi and Arduino

Posted by jpluimers on 2022/08/17

This is so cool!

[Wayback/] Eff-Uno Racer v1 by chrisbensen – Thingiverse

Welcome to the home for the things to print for the Eff-Uno Racer project ([Wayback/] Eff-Uno Racer is a LEGO© Open Wheel Race Car that you can build and remotely control. Most of it is made with LEGO© bricks but the motors are regular RC motors controlled by a Raspberry Pi and Arduino. Below are the extra parts needed.

The videos are via these three tweets:

List is at: [Wayback/] Cool DevRebel Projects – YouTube

Videos when writing (by now there should be more):

  1. [Wayback/] Cloud Car Episode 1 — Custom Breadboard for Pi Zero – YouTube
  2. [Wayback/] Cloud Car Episode 2 — Pi Controlled Motors – YouTube
  3. [Wayback/] Cloud Car Episode 3 — Shoving a Pi & RC Motor into a Toy Car – YouTube
  4. [Wayback/] Episode 4: Shoving a Motor and Speed Controller into a Toy Car – YouTube
  5. [Wayback/] Episode 5 — Next Stage: 3D Printed RC Servo Motor Adapters – YouTube

Via [] Chris Bensen on Twitter: “If you want to build your own open source cloud connected toy race car follow this thing”


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Posted in 3D printing, Arduino, Development, Hardware Development, LifeHacker, Power User, Raspberry Pi | Leave a Comment »

PLA use outdoors? – 3D Printing Stack Exchange

Posted by jpluimers on 2021/07/05

[WayBack] PLA use outdoors? – 3D Printing Stack Exchange:

TL;DR: though bio-degradable, PLA needs high temperatures (> 50 Celsius) to degrade.

So in European summers, for light weight enclosures (like weather stations or signage), it should be fine.

  • [WayBack] Using PLA for Long-Term Outdoor Applications – IEPAS

    To biodegrade within 90 days, as described, the products have to reach 140 F for 10 consecutive days.  This requires a special facility, which few consumers have access to.  If your PLA products end up at the landfill, they will not degrade any faster than a petroleum-based product.

  • [WayBack] Polylactic acid: Degradation – Wikipedia

    Abiotic PLA degradation is due to 3 mechanisms:[35]

    1. Hydrolysis: The ester groups of the main chain are cleaved, dividing the molecule in two parts, thus reducing molecular weight.
    2. Thermal degradation: A complex phenomenon leading to the appearance of different compounds such as lighter molecules and linear and cyclic oligomers with different Mw, and lactide.
    3. Photodegradation: Sunlight induces degradation due to low-wavelength and high-energy UV radiation. This is a factor mainly where PLA is exposed to sunlight in its applications in plasticulture, packaging containers and films.

    The hydrolytic reaction is:

    {\displaystyle {\ce {-COO + H2O -> – COOH + -OH-}}}

    The degradation rate is very slow in ambient temperatures. A 2017 study found that at 25 °C in seawater, PLA showed no degradation over a year.[36]

    Pure PLA foams undergo selective hydrolysis when placed in an environment of Dulbecco’s modified Eagle’s medium (DMEM) supplemented with fetal bovine serum (FBS) (a solution mimicking body fluid). After 30 days of submersion in DMEM+FBS, a PLLA scaffold lost about 20% of its weight.[37]

    PLA samples of varying molecular weight were degraded into methyl lactate (a green solvent) by using a metal complex catalyst.[38]

    Some bacteria can also degrade PLA, such as Amycolatopsis and Saccharothrix. A purified protease from Amycolatopsis sp., PLA depolymerase, can also degrade PLA. Enzymes such as pronase and most effectively proteinase K from Tritirachium album degrade PLA.[39]

    Degradation is the reverse of the synthesis process in this Wikipedia picture:



For other materials and in-car usage, read:


Posted in 3D printing, Power User | Leave a Comment »

Threaded Inserts in 3D Prints – How strong are they? – YouTube

Posted by jpluimers on 2021/03/17

They are much stronger than plastic threads, no matter how you create the plastic threads.

To make them even stronger, add shell thickness to the thread locations, either globally or by using modifier meshes. Modifier meshes work way better in Cura than in Slic3r.


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How-to Make Your Own 3D Printing Goo

Posted by jpluimers on 2020/08/07

Smart idea: [WayBack] How-to Make Your Own 3D Printing Goo.

It is a large (22g) Elmer’s glue stick dissolved into a cup of warm water.

After applying it with a paper towel, the 3D print sticks to the warm printing bed well, but comes off easily from a cold printing bed.

It is quite easy to make. 1 cup water and 1 large 22g Elmers glue stick. I put both in water and let sit thinking it would dissolve on its own. After several hours I got impatient and put it in the microwave and heated it.(45 seconds I think). That did the trick and was only left with a few big clumps that I broke apart with my fingers to finish the dissolving.

To apply I just dip a paper towel in the solution and wipe on the bed. It leaves an extremely light layer of glue on the bed that PLA sticks very well to. When the bed cools the parts have very light adhesion to the bed. If the bed is hot it takes some force to get off.

[WayBack] Elmer’s School Glue Naturals® 1 pack 22g Glue Stick | All Natural Glue

Via: [WayBack] Recipe to make goo for 3D printer bed.  – Jean-Luc Aufranc – Google+


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Working on High Quality Low Cost DIY 3D Scanning using Structured Light

Posted by jpluimers on 2020/08/07

On my list of things to try: [WayBack] Working on High Quality Low Cost DIY 3D Scanning using Structured Light

Via: [WayBack] Karl has started looking into cheaper – yet accurate – DIY solutions for 3D scanning using structured light scanning… – Jean-Luc Aufranc – Google+


Posted in 3D printing, LifeHacker, Power User | Leave a Comment »

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